21K Mitad del Mundo

Back when I wrote about the We Run Quito race in October, I mentioned the possibility of running a half marathon (21 kilometers) at the end of November.  Well, it happened.  Without training and without much forethought, I paid the $15 registration fee, caught a cab up to Quito in the wee hours of the morning this past weekend, and embarked on my first half marathon at daybreak.

2 hours, 12 minutes, and 51 seconds later I crossed the finish line, having fought and won the mental battle to force one leg to lift and then the other, placing one foot in front of the other.  Since "not walking" is some sort of bragging right for runners (not sure why!), I'll mention that the only walking I did was at hydration stations, and walking at those points is actually recommended by some top runners.

 In addition to receiving some cool gear, I come away from the race with a renewed appreciation for the importance of hard work and training.  The course route is unique in that it's set up as a double out-and-back.  As I was running out toward the 5k turn-around, I could see the top runners coming back to finish the first 10k of the race, and as I was around kilometer 11, I watched the soon-to-be-winner coming down the home stretch.  Observing those top Ecuadorian runners, I was impressed by their extreme focus and the extent of their training.  Someone doesn't win a road race by accident.  It comes through hour after hour of grueling physical and mental training.  Applying that to the spiritual life, the Apostle Paul said,

Do you not know that in a race all the runner run, but only one gets the prize?  Run in such a way as to get the prize.  Everyone who competes in the games goes into strict training.  They do it to gain a crown that will not last; but we do it to get a crown that will last forever.  Therefore I do not run like someone running aimlessly; I do not fight like a boxer beating the air.  No, I strike a blow to my body and make it my slave so that after I have preached to others, I myself will not be disqualified for the prize. ~I Corinthians 9: 24-27

I Have a Dream

I have a dream that one day Ecuador will be a country of peace where children play in parks and mothers walk through the streets without fear.  I have a dream that one day sicarios will not exist, and youth will play soccer and read books instead of robbing their neighbors.  I have a dream that one day each Ecuadorian child will have access to education both in Spanish and in Kichwa.  I have a dream that one day the mestizo, the indigenous, the montubio, and the afroecuadorian will join hands and proclaim freedom and equality for all.   

I have a dream that jobs will be available for those willing and qualified to work.  I have a dream that businesspeople will see their work as service to the Lord, and wealth will be used to improve the lives of those who have the least.  I have a dream that one day corruption will be stigmatized and honesty will take its place.   

I have a dream that one day the Evangelical Church of Ecuador will not have the reputation of being so divided that it is no “threat” to political leaders.  Instead the government will be run by Christians who are passionate about leading their country with integrity.  I have a dream that one day the Gospel will be proclaimed from the peak of Chimborazo to the Napo River to the lagoons of Cajas to the Galapagos Islands.  I have a dream that we can conserve the natural beauty and diversity of Yasuni and Sumaco and minimize our human impact on the jungle.  I have a dream that the beauty of this rich country will one day be complemented by the beauty of a truly free, peaceful, transparent, flourishing society.

This is my dream, but it cannot only be mine.  Will Ecuadorians dare to articulate a bold vision for their country?  Can they see the current reality and yearn for a better future?  Can that yearning become so great that we are discontent with the current state of things and determined to bring about change?  Will we never settle for anything short of our most lofty vision?  I know that there are others who dream, but we are too few.  Too often I hear of problems, but rarely do I hear a call to action or dreams of a better Ecuador.  

 I have only been in Ecuador for a year and a half and may not have the legitimacy to propose a larger vision for this country.  However, I have been ripped off, outright robbed, and subjected to machista comments.  I have seen children begging in the streets; youth who can’t find jobs; and adults who see corruption, cronyism, and dishonest behaviors as completely acceptable.  I’ve complained about all these things, but if that is the only thing I focus on, it will suck up all my energy and distract me from the good things in life.  Instead, I have a dream of a better Ecuador, and I am determined to be part of making that dream a reality.

Ecuador Cities

When I was looking up a details about Cuenca for my last post, I came to a realization about how ridiculously long the official names of Ecuadorian cities are.
In truth, Cuenca is just a "short version" of the city's name.  Full name: Santa Ana de los cuatro rios de Cuenca.  Translation: Santa Ana of the Four Rivers of Cuenca.  Most cities in Ecuador are similar in keeping very long names.  For example, I live in San Juan de Cumbaya, right outside of San Francisco de Quito, and I helped on a medical brigade in Santo Domingo de los Tsachilas.  Notice the trend of including the name of the Catholic patron saints in the name of each city.  If that's not enough, most of the original city names had "Muy Noble y Muy Leal Ciudad de..." before their titles.  I find that ironic because "Very noble and loyal city" doesn't really fit with the whole revolution and independence from Spain part that happened a few years later.

Speaking of independence, Ecuador does have an independence day (August 10), but the real celebrations are on  the independence days of the three main cities of Ecuador (Guayaquil - October 9, Quito - May 24, and you already know Cuenca's).

As if Ecuador doesn't have enough holidays with its 4 official independence days, the days on which the principle cities were founded by the Spanish are often celebrated as well, albeit on a regional level.  Personally, I'm looking forward to Quito's founding on December 6, but there are also celebrations in Guayaquil on July 25, in Cuenca on April 12, and probably in some other cities on other dates as well.

This trend toward regionalism is important for understanding Ecuadorian culture.  You can tell just by the way a person talks whether they are from the coast (Guayaquil), Quito, Cuenca, or an indigenous group.  Quiteños call people from Guayaquil monos (monkeys), and the monos respond with something like "potato eaters."  Diet, agriculture, and industry change dramatically when one moves east from the Pacific Coast to the Andean mountain highlands to the Amazon jungle.  While Ecuador might be about the size of Colorado, the regional diversity noted in the distinctions between cities goes far beyond that which is noted in any one US state.

Happy [Cuencan] Independence Day

This last week Quito was dead.  As in, no traffic jams, very rare honking, and the street outside my apartment was eerily silent.  That was all thanks to a 5-day weekend in honor of Dia de los Difuntos (All Soul's Day on Nov. 2) and the Independence day of Cuenca, Ecuador on November 3, 1820.  While I decided to take the time to relax here in Quito and stay away from the huge crowds, I figure this is a good time to share some pictures from my trip to Cuenca last year for the celebration. Since my now apartment mate is from Cuenca, she invited me to visit her city and her family for the holiday.

Cristina and me at the Turi church above Cuenca

Turi Church

The highlight of my time in Cuenca was the burning of the castillos or "castles," which can best be described as 2-story towers of metal and paper machete riddled with firecrackers and other dangerous pyrotechnics.  This celebration happens in the evening in the central park, which was packed to the gills when I was there.

I think from those images you can get the picture--sparks flying everywhere.  The fun thing is that they set up the castillos all around the central park, and you never know which one they will light next.  So everyone crowds around one only to be part of the crowd running to the other when a different one is chosen.

Everyday in Cuenca during the holiday there were fairs, parades, and other celebrations.  I went to two fairs with Cristina and her family.  The first reminded me much of of a typical county fair, and the second was a lot like an arts and crafts show. 

This aint your typical Midwestern fair--llamas and alpaca are a prominent fixture.

As are guinea pigs

Mariachi band at the arts & crafts fair

 Cuenca is a World Heritage Site because of its well-preserved colonial architecture.  A few evenings while we were waiting for events to start or driving around town, I captured these pictures:

Next time I get to visit Cuenca I hope to see more of these buildings, and maybe not just from the outside.  Another goal for the future is to go hiking in the Cajas National Park, which has hundreds of lagoons.  The closest I got was fishing along the roadside on the outskirts of Cajas, but even what I could see of the park from a distance was beautiful.

Have you ever?

Sometimes my life seems ridiculous.  As in, I ask myself, "did that really just happen?"  The thing is, many of the events that I now accept as "normal" are completely foreign to my upbringing in white, suburban, Midwest middle class America.  So...

Have You Ever...

Lived through an earthquake?  Just last Saturday--it was a 4.0 centered less than 10 miles away.

Had a guy hit on you by calling you fat?  Definitely--what other terms of endearment are there?

Cut the umbilical cord for a kitten?  Twice.  What else would you do if your apartment mate's cat suddenly started giving birth?  Go to the vet?  How absurd!

Mama "Missy" cat with the new kittens

When they were big enough to really be "cute"

Faked you were sleeping as soon as a guy asked if you spoke Spanish on a bus?  Of course!  Otherwise the next 2 questions would be "How long have you been in Ecuador? (polite conversation) and "Do you have a boyfriend?"  (what he really wanted to ask.)  Don't worry, I never actually sleep.  I usually keep my eyes half-open and am laughing on the inside as the guy tries to decide if he should ask again, just a little louder.  I think next time I'm going to start fake-snoring, just in case.

Had the airport police confiscate your still-valid ID only to have them send you to another branch of the police to get a police report that the ID was lost/stolen so that the same 1st branch of the police could issue a new ID?  Yes! (Did you even understand that illogical series of events?)  Oddly enough, everyone after that first police officer admitted that the whole process was pointless, but they insisted on following it.

Chased a llama?  Well, I wanted to pet it...

Worn sunscreen everyday, 365 days a year?  Almost yes--otherwise I'd be burned in about 15 minutes.  Direct sun on the equator + less atmosphere in the mountains = higher chances of skin cancer.  Not going to take the risk.

Eaten a guinea pig?  Sorry to anyone who has one as a pet, but it's just a fact of life in Ecuador.  So yes, I have.

Señor Cuy

Run away from firecrackers flying into the crowd from a burning "crazy cow" that a nonchalant guy was carrying?  Um, yeah.  I think my friends here are still laughing at me for that.  Vacas locas are part of any real fiesta.

So for anyone who thinks life in Ecuador is just like life in the US--think again!

No Typical Bus Ride

Climbing onto a bus in Ecuador is always an adventure.  You never know what might happen in the next few minutes, or hours, of your time in that enclosed space.  There's always the cute little babies on their mother's laps--cooing, making faces, and sometimes crying.  Then there are the school children dressed in their uniforms, which come in every color of the rainbow (although mainly blue, red, black, and yellow).  For girls the uniform is usually a short pleated skirt with knee-high socks and some schools make the boys wear full suits.  I always am amused by the 10-year-old boys who look like they just came out of a board meeting.

Beyond the normal--the people sitting or standing, waiting to get home--there are sometimes unusual events that just make me want to laugh.

Street vendors aren't the only informal business feature of Ecuador.  There are also what can best be described as "bus vendors."  These people wait at the major bus stops to ride a bus to the next major stop, and since my route to Quito is a relatively uninterrupted 20 minutes long with few stops and distractions, it is a favorite for bus vendors.  You might be able to best understand the experience as a live, moving infomercial.  Here's one of my favorites:
Guy gets on bus and introduces himself, "Sorry for the inconvenience or for making you uncomfortable.  Some of you might not want to listen to me, but thanks for listening anyway [as if we have a choice...talk about a captive audience].  Many youth my age are stuck in drugs and alcohol and gangs.  I used to do that once, but now I've turned my life around and am working in a dignified manner to feed my wife and 9 children [okay, so maybe only 2 kids]."
"As you all know, we Ecuadorians love greasy fast food--hamburgers, french fries, hot dogs, etc.  You know it's bad for your health, but did you know that it can cause hepatitis A, hepatitis B, prostate cancer, and many other diseases?"  [insert here a long, non-scientific explanation of the connection between hamburgers and prostate cancer].
Now for the kicker:
"Do not worry, today I am selling this bag of tea made from natural sources that will clean out all the grease and fat and save you from hepatitis and prostate cancer.  For the low price of 50 cents [you can miraculously buy a healthy life]."
Good thing I don't get my medical advice from bus vendors.

Some other good ones:

Last Friday I was headed up to Quito when traffic came to a standstill right before "la bomba" in Miravalle.  Let's just say that we were 5 minutes into a 20 minute ride.  After waiting 10 minutes and not moving an inch, the bus driver decided to make a 3-point, ahem, 9-point turn across 4 lanes of traffic.  We returned from whence we came and then took a cobblestone street up to the highway connection.  All the way back down the hill the cobrador flailed his arms anytime another bus passed, trying to get them to turn around.  The question is--since there are no cross streets on that stretch, how were they going to turn around?  Another 7 buses doing 9-point turns?  That's something I'd like to see.

One weekday on my way to work I was riding the Ecovia line.  A little girl, perhaps 5 years old was sitting right by me on her mom's lap.  She looked at me for a while and then all of a sudden she started telling her mom in English, "I love you. I love you. I love you."  She paused for a second and then asked her mom in Spanish, "What does that mean?"  Well, I'm glad the presence of a gringa caused that little girl to express her love for her mama, even if she didn't know what she was saying in my language.

That's Ecuador for you--rarely a dull moment on a bus.

We Run Quito

This past Saturday I joined my friend Emily and her friend Emma to run perhaps the biggest annual race in Quito.  7000+ runners created a mass of red pounding the pavement on a crisp Andean night.  To celebrate our finish, we grabbed pizza with their friend Paco.

LtoR: Me, Emma, and Emily (photo compliments of Paco)

The finisher medal and logo on the t-shirt worn by 7000 people!

After the race Emily spent the night so that she could see Cumbaya (aka CumbayMiami or CumbaYork for the wealth of Ecuadorians in this area and their affinity with travel to the US).  She commented on the size of the houses down here in the valley and we discussed some of the notable differences between our respective neighborhoods of Quito.  We also took some time to bake chocolate-butterscotch chip cookies that melt in your mouth and reminded us of home.

That was a fun way to spend the weekend, and now I'm debating a 1/2 marathon at the end of November...we shall see!

Innovation

I must admit that I've always been a proponent of change.  If I were a scientist, I would probably study enthropy or chemical reactions, but as things stand, I'm more of a social scientist.  Thus my college degree in International Development shouldn't come as a surprise.  Development--as in progress, as in changing from less-developed to more-developed.  Those words are quite charged with meaning that I could explore, but I'd rather focus on another word associated with change--Innovation.

Mirriam-Webster defines innovation as an action--"the introduction of something new" or that new thing itself--"a new idea, method or device."  My thoughts focus more on the action, or at an even deeper level, the creativity and imagination necessary in order to spur on innovation and persevere until a little thought floating on a cloud grows into a ground-breaking invention.

While some people might have been blessed with a greater propensity to create, I believe that we all have a stroke of creativity in us.  After all, if we were made in the image of the Creator God who spoke all things out of nothingness, shouldn't at least a little of that rubbed off on us?  And what then are we supposed to do with that impulse to innovate?

Recently I have seen a number of people dreaming about and attempting new, innovative things.  A businessperson from a recent training class wants to start a business unlike any in the world.  Two people connected to revitalize an industry that had closed when there were no links in the distribution chain.  Another businessperson wants to bring business training and environmental sustainability together in one economically- and ecologically-sound model.

Innovation can be daunting.  Making a new idea a reality is not something that happens overnight, and it takes daring to overcome the very real risk of failure.  However, when I think of innovation in the context of the huge needs in the developing world today, I'm inspired by those who are willing to think creatively in the face of seemingly insurmountable obstacles.  We aren't going to eliminate poverty tomorrow, even if we yearn for a world without poverty.  However, if we are going to make progress toward that vision, we need innovative businesspeople who work to create dignified jobs, preserve the environment, and keep working to solve problems with innovative solutions.

Latest training graduates - equipped to create innovative business solutions

One final thought: Gandhi famously said, "Be the change you wish to see in the world."  So be innovative--bring positive, lasting, ground-breaking change.

Cruz de Ilaló

I still remember the first time I really saw mountains.  Sure, I had been out to Colorado when I was little, but when I was 10, my family went the Appalachians.  As we left the flat Midwest and approached those ancient towering masses on the horizon, I was overcome by awe at the majesty of God’s creation.  Now I live in a valley high in the Andean mountains, but that amazement still hasn’t ended.  Today was a relatively clear day for the start of the rainy season, and as I look across the valley to where the ridgeline forms a jagged border with the deep blue sky, it reminds me of the song “Hear our Praises” by Hillsong.

From the mountains to the valleys
hear our praises rise to You,
from the heavens to the nations
hear our singing fill the air.

Standing in awe at the beauty of creation quickly reminds us who our Creator is, and praise flows naturally from our awestruck wonder.  But when we don’t have those realizations, it’s easy to go about the day without doing “it all in the name of Jesus” (Colossians 3:17).  Working for Partners Worldwide, I’ve been challenged to explore what it means to do Business as Mission—to run a business or work at one’s job in service to God and others. 

I’m still learning and hope to share part of my journey here in the future, but in the meantime, let me share some pictures of my last time mountain climbing.  This particular mountain has a cross at the top that serves as a reminder that every inch of creation belongs to Him, and we are called to praise him wherever we are—mountains, valleys, or flat prairies!

The view of Chillos Valley at the start of the climb

At the top of the mountain

The Cruz (cross) above the valley

The neighboring hill in patchwork farming plots

Mas Fruta

Yes, that means "more fruit" for those who aren't 100% confident of their Spanish.  Even for those who do know Spanish from some other parts of the world, some of the names for the following fruits might still leave you stumped.  But that's what's unique about Andean fruit--though they might be found elsewhere, many of these fruits, like uvillas, are native to Ecuador, Colombia, and sometimes Peru.

Naranjilla (Solanum quitoense) - the Latin name for this fruit actually means "from Quito," prooving that this is definitely an Ecuadorian fruit.  I actually couldn't find an English name for it (little orange??), but naranjilla, commonly used for juice here, has gone from a "what is this" fruit to one of my favorites!  I'll take it as juice, icecream, a shake, whatever!

Tomate de Arbol (tamarillo) - another native of the region, this fruit is now cultivated as far away as Australia and New Zealand.  Although tamarillo is often used for juice, it's great as a snack - just cut it in half and scoop out the center.  Or you can cut a hole at the top and squeeze out the insides :).  I've also heard that heating the fruit and eating it with honey has medicinal effects on a sore throat.  I'm definitely trying that next time I'm sick!

Pitahaya (yellow dragonfruit) -think "sweet to the 10th power."  I can't say this is my favorite fruit, even though I have a huge sweet tooth.  However, every once in a while I like to cut a pitahaya open and scoop out the juicy flesh and seeds for an afternoon snack.

 
Uvilla (cape gooseberry or Inca berry) - the only time I've eaten fresh uvillas was when hiking with friend.  We came across some growing wild and ate them along the way.  However, my favorite Ecuadorian granola uses dried uvillas as a tangy addition to the mix.  Native to the Andean mountain region, this fruit grows wild and isn't as common to find in a fruit market as the rest. In reality, it looks a lot like a small cherry tomato growing in a pod that refuses to take on any color other than orange.

Guanabana (soursop) - I've never had this fruit prepared in any other way than as a juice, so I'd call that standard fare for guanabana.  However, when I was out on the coast a couple months ago, several people had soursop growing in their backyard, so here's the evidence:

Fruta!

One of the most common questions I get from people back home is--what's the food like over there?  Someday I promise to post pictures of some of the most common main dishes and give an explanation of the general diet, but I'll start off with fruit...

One fruit I really miss from the US is blueberries, which I have yet to find in Ecuador, but besides that, we have all the common fruits you would find in the US--apples, oranges, blackberries, bananas (some of your bananas might actually be from Ecuador), mangos, mandarin oranges (in season now!), plums, and strawberries (there is no season--they are produced all year round!).

On top of those fruits, there are many others that are different, strange, and downright weird-looking.  But hey, as long as they taste good, right?  So here's a few of those random fruits, and I'll tell you about the rest next week.

Achotillo (Rambutan) - I was first introduced to this fruit in Nicaragua, where it's called mamon chino.  The bright red prickly skin is cut or bit open to reveal a sweet, white flesh surrounding a large pit.  When I first tried this fruit, it would take me a full 15 minutes to pry the flesh off of the pit by rolling it around in my mouth.  I'm sure my Latino friends got a kick out of watching me as a gringa try to master the art of eating achotillo.

Taxo (Banana passionfruit) - it wasn't until some Cuban friends recognized this fruit from eating it in their homeland that I dared to try it.  From the outside, taxo could easily be mistaken for a small, rounded banana, but once you cut it open, there are hundreds of juicy pods surrounding bitter seeds.  The best way to eat it is in a batido (milkshake), but if you aren't careful and accidentally blend the seeds, it becomes a bitter drink.

Noni - I'd heard about the medicinal properties of this fruit before, but I didn't know it grew in Ecuador until a businessperson offered me some fruit from her backyard.  When we picked it off the tree (pictured below), the fruit was still yellow-green, but within a day it turned completely white.  I still don't know how to prepare or eat it (it's pretty bitter), but hey, maybe eating a few of these fruits lengthened my life :)

Maracuya (passion fruit) - after living in Central America, I absolutely love maracuya.  It's one of those fruits that's intensely acidic and is best as a juice with lots of sugar, but I would even eat it straight out of the shell.  Even when I'm back in the US, I can often find the juice in Salvadorean pupusa restaurants.  If I had to guess, this is probably the fruit that I'll mot likely be able to eat for the rest of my life.

Granadilla (also called passion fruit) - of the unusual fruits of Ecuador, this is the one that I tend to buy the most.  Although it looks a little like maracuya, granadilla is anything but acidic or sour.  To eat it, you crack open the outer yellow-orange shell, then peel away the skin, and inside there are hundreds of black seed surrounded by grey capsules of sweet juice.  It's a "crunchy" fruit due to the seeds which are eaten with the juice, and since the best way to eat it is by slurping out of the shell, it's also a noisy fruit to eat.  But the noise and possible mess are all worth it.

So there are a few fruits for your culinary enjoyment, with more to come in a future post.

Partners Visit

For those who don't know much about Partners Worldwide (PW), let me preface this post by explaining a little about the structure of PW.  Instead of going to a country and setting up an office and staff and following a set model for international development, PW works internationally by connecting Christian businesspeople from the US (or another more developed country) with Christian businesspeople already living and serving in a given country (like Ecuador).  Really we're all about relationships.  We want to build a strong international partnership between those 2 groups of businesspeople.  We foster relationships with the businesspeople we serve.  This year we're also putting a special emphasis on mentoring relationships, both locally and with international mentors.  All that said, face-to-face contact in a weeklong visit from the North American partners is an important part of strengthening the partnering relationship.

Thus, the end of June/beginning of July was a time of lots of meetings, visits to businesses, and dinners with the various people with whom I work.

The day after everyone arrived, the North American and Ecuadorian leaders talked over plans for the year and had an evening dinner with trainers who help out with the business course.


About 2/3 of our binational team

A special musical surprise during dinner

The second day, we split into two groups to visit businesses in North Quito, South Quito, and the two valleys.  A few of the businesses we visited...

 That evening, the two groups met up in the Old Town colonial area for dinner, and we had a view of the city from the 5th floor Vista Hermosa Restaurant.

Dinner entertainment--halfway thru dinner an elderly man took over the piano at the back of the restaurant.

Looking south--Independence square with Panecillo in the background.

Looking north--La Basilica on the horizon with Toma de Asis in the foreground.

After two days in Quito, I headed to Las Mercedes on the coast with 3 members of the North American team and Edwin, who had led a training course there at the start of this year.  Since Las Mercedes is an agricultural community, we saw lots of cows, pigs, and chickens and ate food that was picked that same day.

Eating fresh cheese at the production site

At the Las Mercedes rice mill

Motorcycle repair--in the past 10 years motorcycles have replaced horses as the main form of transportation within the community.

Lester chopped open a few coconuts so we could finish the day with coconut milk

Scooping out the fleshy coconut meat

 After a quick flight back to Quito and some time together in the airport, most of the team left to spend the 4th of July with family.  A few of us had one last meal together until next time.